Keep Small Bathroom Remodel Simple
November 17, 2009 by admin
Filed under Bathroom Remodeling
One of the biggest mistakes homeowners make when remodeling a small bathroom is trying to cram in everything they’d like to put in a big bathroom. The second mistake is choosing fixtures, decorative items, and the like that are too bulky or too ornate. Choosing clean simple lines, without a lot of decoration, will make the space look larger.
One way to approach a small bathroom remodel, then, is to keep it simple. Sometimes less is more; and this is true of small bathrooms. If you are trying to create an elegant and luxurious bathroom don’t forget about understated elegance.
Starting with the big things, here are some tips to help you with your small bathroom remodel:
Choose only a compact shower stall or only a whirlpool or spa tub that is smaller and deeper (this will fit nicely in a corner). Even some of the tub designs now being advertised for seniors would work in a small bathroom.
Choose a pedestal sink or a wall mounted sink. This will leave more floor space and make the room feel bigger.
Choose the most compact toilet you can find. Choose a taller model over a shorter wider style.
Now for decorative items:
* Choose a mirror with no frame or a mirror with a small frame — this will make the room look bigger and the mirror will reflect light farther in the room.
* Cover an entire wall with a mirror — this will create the appearance of a much larger space.
* Use fewer wall-mounted towel rods or rings — choose a ring beside the sink to save space.
* Store extra linens nearby, but put out only a minimum at any one time.
* Place light fixtures where they will reflect light throughout the room.
* If you don’t have a window, consider installing a tube light to bring in sunlight.
* Find creative ways to add storage in walls.
Decorating ideas:
* Choose lighter and brighter colors.
* Use glass block windows or frosted windows instead of curtains — it will make the room look larger.
* Use wallpaper or paint design that draws the eye upward to make the room appear larger — either vertical stripes, vertical designs, or a border at the top of the wall.
* Use small shelves above and under sinks, toilets, etc. to provide storage and decoration.
* Keep color combinations minimalist — no more than two colors.
* Avoid clutter — don’t set decorative items around that are not necessary.
* Add luxuries in ways that do not use more of your space (massaging shower heads, spa tub, radiant floor heating, fogless mirrors, heated towel rods, fragrances, etc.)
In small spaces, simplicity is generally best if you want to create a feeling of spaciousness and elegance. Clean simple lines, lots of light, no clutter, and an eye to the necessary will help you create a very comfortable and luxurious small bathroom remodel.
Copyright 2008 by ABCD Publishing
Dan Fritschen, Publisher at ABCD Publishing, is a consultant to both individuals and businesses who are trying to decide whether to remodel or move. ABCD publishing currently owns two helpful websites, www.remodelormove.com and www.remodelestimates.com.
The Simple Basement Remodel. Or is it?
November 16, 2009 by admin
Filed under Exterior Remodeling
Most people think a basement remodel is one of the easiest home remodeling projects to complete. More often than not, it is actually one of the more complex projects. Basements often have water and drainage problems, inadequate ceiling heights, old sloping concrete floor slabs, no insulation, and no easy way to connect the plumbing. And most people expect the basement to serve many purposes. Often the basement is designed to accommodate work and play, media rooms, storage and craft areas and many other uses. So unless you are looking for a simple, one-room remodel, be prepared to address a number of challenges.
Measure the head height
Many basements don’t have adequate floor to ceiling height to create livable space. Older homes especially have inadequate head height since the space was only ever meant to be used as storage. Also, basements will often have pipes and ductwork that hang down below the floor structure of the level above the basement. It is often impossible or too expensive to move these. So when measuring head height, measure from the lowest objects on the ceiling. Keep in mind that if ducts and pipes are confined to one area, it may be possible to step the ceiling height so some areas are higher than others.
Assess how level the slab is
Many older homes had a very poorly constructed concrete slab as the floor. Often this slab is so out of level that one side of the basement is several inches higher than the other. Without removing the slab or pouring a topping slab to level it, it will be challenging to construct anything level and square. Plus when furniture is moved in when the project is complete, it won’t sit flat on the floor, which will call even more attention to the problem. Spend the money to make the floor level. In the long run it will be worth it.
Be sure the basement is dry
Don’t put money and labor into a basement that is not dry without solving the problem. If the basement has water problems, a drainage system is the best solution to solve the problem. Typically a portion of the floor slab is removed around the inside of the basement perimeter and rock and drainage pipe are installed to drain to a sump pump location where the water collects. The sump pump will periodically drain the water to the exterior when necessary. If water is coming through the center of the slab, it may be necessary to install drainage within that area of the slab as well.
It may be tempting to try some of those roll-on waterproofing systems. Typically these do not provide a lasting solution. It’s important to make a way for the water to drain away easily. Water will take the path of least resistance, so making an easy way for the water to drain is the best way to maintain a dry basement.
Insulate the walls
Most jurisdictions will require the walls of the basement be insulated if is being turned into living space. Usually this is accomplished with installing 2×4 stud walls adjacent to the basement walls and installing fiberglass batts. Keep in mind that wood that is not pressure treated should not be in contact with concrete, so often times the 2×4 walls are held away from the concrete, so only the bottom wall plate has to be pressure treated. Consider using a higher R-value foam insulation instead of fiberglass. Since foam insulation has a higher R-value per inch, you can reduce the thickness of the perimeter insulating walls by around 2″. This means more floor space. Also a closed cell foam will act as vapor retarder as well, which will help keep the wall cavity dry.
If you are adding a bathroom, assess how it will be plumbed
Many basements need an additional bathroom since it’s inconvenient to go upstairs every time you need to use the bathroom. Installing a basement bathroom can be a challenge because most basements have a concrete slab as the floor. Usually this means cutting out portions of the slab to install drains for toilets, showers or tubs, and other fixtures. Do this instead of installing a floor on top of the slab and having a step up to the bathroom. In the end, it will be worth the additional cost.
It is also necessary to assess how the house is connected to the sewer, and the elevation of the sewer. It is easier to install a bathroom when the sewer outlet is below the level of the new basement bathroom drains. If the sewer outlet is above the basement floor (as it often is in older homes) then the sewerage will need to be pumped up to the sewer outlet. Alarms and other safety systems should be installed to alert the occupants when the pump fails or there is a power outage.
Adding a bedroom?
A basement bedroom is a popular item to include in a basement remodel. A particular challenge of adding a bedroom is the requirement for an egress window to allow individuals to escape if there is a fire. Since the size of this window is quite large (it is actually sized to allow a fire-fighter to gain access to the house with equipment on), the window will often be partially below the exterior surface level, or grade. To solve this problem, a window-well is constructed on the exterior of the house to allow access to the window. This also has the added benefit of increasing the level of light in the basement, making it seem more open and connected to the outdoors. There are minimum sizes for egress windows and window wells, so following the code is important, otherwise you will not pass the building inspection.
Make it multipurpose
A basement will serve many functions, so it’s important to plan for and consider all the uses. Basements are often used as play areas for children, work areas, sleeping areas, storage areas, exercise areas, and media rooms. Consider how materials chosen for the floors and walls will aid in allowing the space be used for multiple uses. Also keep in mind that if children will be playing on the floor, a basement floor is often quite cold, so carpet may be a good choice since it usually has a thick insulating pad. If you want a hard surface floor, consider a floating floor of wood or cork (but keep in mind that you often have to test how much moisture is coming through the slab to see if the product will be suitable for your application).
A basement remodel is one of the most popular remodels because often times it takes advantage of space that is already existing. While it appears to be simple, it can often be one of the more challenging projects to complete. But a well design basement often becomes the preferred ‘hang out space’, so it’s well worth the investment of time and funds. Don’t skimp on doing it right, because in the long run you will get many years of enjoyment out of a well designed space.
Nazim Nice is a Seattle Architect
at Motionspace Architecture + Design PLLC and has over 12 years of experience
designing residential and commercial projects. He is also the founder of Lumen
ID, a company that produces custom engraved architectural products including
custom engraved light switch plate labels.
Visit his blog: The (Un)common
House.
Easy Drywall Repair a typical home improvement
November 16, 2009 by admin
Filed under Home Remodeling
An easy way to repair holes in drywall. With this method of repair no nails/screws wood required!do it youself and save dollars!
Build a Simple Deck
November 12, 2009 by admin
Filed under Deck Remodeling
I can’t promise you a beachfront view, but I know you’ll enjoy relaxing on this simple deck wherever you choose to build it. Since it’s at ground level, you don’t have to fuss with challenging railings or footings. All you need are basic carpentry tools and a relatively flat area in your yard or garden. The foundation is nothing more than 4×6 treated timbers buried in the soil, with decorative joists and construction-grade cedar decking and a bench. Follow the instructions for detailed measurements and building techniques.
Materials List:
(2) 4×6x12’ Treated Timbers
(9) 2×6x10’ Cedar Joists
(2) 2×6x10’ Cedar for Blocking
(1) 2×12x10’ Cedar Bench Supports
(2) 2X6X10’ Cedar Bench Tops
(22) 2×6x12’ Cedar Decking
(32) Metal Corner Brackets
3 lbs. Galv. Joist Hanger Nails
2 lbs. No. 8 Galv. Box Nails
10 lbs. 16d Galv. Casing Nails
1 lb. 3-in. Galv. Deck Screws
Tool List:
Shovel
Square
Tape Measure
Level
Compass
Chalk Line
Jigsaw
Hammer
Circular Saw
Hearing and Eye Protection
Gloves
1.) Dig the 4×6 timbers into the soil, leaving about 1-1/2 in. of the top exposed. The timbers must be parallel and the diagonal measurements must be equal.
2.) Cut each treated 2×6 joist to 10 ft. Cut a decorative curve on each end before installing them onto the 4×6 treated timbers.
3.) Lay out the joist spacing so the joists are on 16-in. centers. Cut the blocks to fit between the joists. The first set of blocks (one on each side) will be 13-1/4 in., while the remainder will be 14-1/2 in. long. Toenail each joist to the timber. Be sure the ends of all the joists align with each other as you toenail them in place.
4.) Nail your steel corner brackets to the joists and each block between with 1-1/4 in. galvanized joist hanger nails. The blocks add stability and give the deck a finished look.
5.) Start nailing the 2×6 decking from one side, leaving a 1-1/2 in. overhang. Keep the decking straight and use a 16d galvanized nail as a spacer. Depending on the spacing, you may need to rip the last piece of decking to maintain the 1-1/2 in. overhang. Once the decking is nailed, crosscut the lengths, leaving a 1-1/2 in. overhang. Be sure to use a chalk line to establish a straight guideline before cutting.
6.) Cut the bench supports from 2×12 lumber. Notch the decking to accept the bench supports. Be sure to toenail the backside of the seat support to the decking for added stability. Be sure the supports are square to the deck surface, then screw the 2×6 bench tops to the supports with 3-in. galvanized screws.
Now it’s time to relax and enjoy your new deck.
For additional information on deck construction, please visit www.OutdoorFloors.net, a major resource for decking construction materials and outdoor flooring ideas.
Joe Swantack has years of experience in the concrete, hardscapes, and home remodeling industry. He brings you the expertise and advice needed to see your project through to successful completion.







